We managed to be on our bikes by 8:30-ish, to leave open the possibility of going all the way to Silverton in a day — 50 miles and over 5600 feet of climbing. As usual we took our time, stopping at a Honey Store, an apple tree that was donating (I took at least five that had fallen to the ground and had minimal insect damage), a couple other photo/rest/snack stops. It was clear and very warm.
Everywhere around Durango people are thanking the firefighters (huge devastating fire earlier this summer) but this is the first sign we saw that thanked them for saving their bacon.
Fatass at the honey shop. His/her t-shirt is also thanking the firefighters.
A hot spring right off the road!
We arrived at Haviland Lake around noon and decided to take the 1/2 mile detour to the campground to get some water and information. We didn’t know of any campgrounds between here and Molas Pass and still had most of the climbing ahead of us, so we wanted to know our options. The Campground Host had a LOT to say. No campgrounds between here at the top, though there are plenty of places to pitch a tent if we want to go rogue. He and his family had been working here all summer, having made a connection through his previous job in which he did reenactments in Tombstone. He’d gotten *that* job because of his awesome beard. He just “looked the part.” Yes there are bears here and you can see their paw prints on the dumpsters, so practice bear awareness. Yes there is hiking here and it’s more beautiful than Mt Fuji. Also, the prime campsite is available, with lakefront property. And a bunch more about his future plans, and tattoos.
I had a little bit of a headache and Bill was concerned about making the distance so we decided to stay and enjoy the better-than-Fuji hike.
Bear prints on the dumpster. The top was also covered with paw prints.
I haven’t been to Mt Fuji but I highly doubt this hike is better. It looked a lot like Rock Creek Park in DC. (I know, different trees, whatever... but it was all forest and there was no way to tell you were in the mountains.) But it was cool to be on my two feet again and have NO PAIN for the first time since Desert RATS. Excited to start training again once I get home.
Our front yard was pretty nice though. Later I took a similar pic of my feet from my hammock.
We’ve seen this sign at a lot of campgrounds. I understand not wanting the drain at the community pump to get clogged with pasta but if you shake all your cooking debris all over your campsite... doesn’t that attract bears? Once again no bear boxes despite the signs requiring bear safety... but we befriended a fellow cyclist/camper who stored our stuff in his truck overnight.
We got another relatively early start — 8:30 from the highway point where we bailed yesterday — and set off up the pass. I was bummed because today was super cloudy while yesterday was perfectly clear. Wyatt Earp Reenacter had predicted clouds/rain yesterday afternoon (wrong) and clear this morning (also wrong) but of course this is the mountains so I can’t really fault him for that. The part about the hike being amazing, though... that was bullshit and without our excitement about an awesome hike we probably would have finished the ride yesterday and had amazing views. Oh well. I’m further stressed about our delay, because now we have to do the most treacherous pass, Red Mountain, tomorrow. Weather looks worse and it’s Labor Day Weekend. We’re going to try for another early start, and just hog the lane rather than letting RVs pass us. And, mountains. Maybe we’ll get lucky and it’ll be clear. It’s supposed to be a stunningly beautiful ride.
Feeling emboldened by my peeps as I approach Coal Bank Pass
I see Bill. We’d just descended about 1000 feet and were starting to climb back toward Molas.
At Molas Pass, exchanging photo favors with other tourists.
Somewhat distorted pano view from Molas Pass
Bill demonstrates how to claim the lane as we approach Silverton. (OK don’t correct me. We’d be further from yellow line if there were oncoming traffic. Just don’t want to tempt anyone to pass on the left and push us off a cliff.)
The coal-belching tourist train that goes between Durango and Silverton
Our little tent at the RV campground.
Pro-gun propaganda at the campground
A little sightseeing on the way to... duh... the local microbreweries. “Madam Jew Fanny” wtf?
My bike makes a friend
Look below for link to next installment!